Molokai

This island is 260 square miles of natural beauty with awesome sea cliffs that rise more than 3,000 feet above the coastline, surrounded by a necklace of ancient fish ponds along the southern shore.

There are no crowds and Molokaians guard their laid-back lifestyle with pride.

You can best see the sights by mounting a mule for the ride down the 1600 foot cliff, then board a boat for some exhilarating deep-sea fishing. Or you can sail around the coastline, go on safari, play golf and if you are still feeling active, hike the Kamakou Preserve, a tropical rainforest which is home to rare birds and plants, insects and land snails.

In the heart of the island is Kaunakakai, a one street town lined with small family-run businesses where early this century pineapples were shipped in their millions to Honolulu canneries.

Today the wharf area is dominated by a fleet of fishing, cruising and sailing boats available for charter.

Allow a full day for a round trip drive along the southern shore to Halawa Valley, where along the way you'll see quaint churches, beautiful beaches and the largest concentration of ancient fish ponds, some dating back to the thirteenth century.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park was established on December 22, 1980. Still in its formative years, it is dedicated to the past, the present and the future. It is dedicated to preserving the memories and experiences of the past in order that valuable lessons might be learned from them. It is dedicated to providing a well-maintained community to ensure that present residents of the Settlement may live out their lives in this, their home. And, it is dedicated to the education of present and future generations with regard to a disease that has been shrouded in fear and ignorance for centuries. The park is open Monday through Saturday, by invitation only. Visitors must be at least 16 years of age.

Molokai has an incredible variety of beaches, most of them utterly deserted. While the south, east and west shore beaches are easily accessible, only the hardy will ever set foot on the sand of Molokai's north shore. However, for those with time and a boat (or kayak) can, after careful planning, find themselves at one of the beaches at the foot of Molokai's north shore sea cliffs -- some of the tallest in the world!

When you drive east out of the main town of Kaunakakai along the island's south shore, you'll find that the beaches are muddy and offer poor swimming. They do, however, present great views of the ancient fish ponds that dot the shore, as well as sweeping vistas highlighted by the islands of Maui and Lanai across the narrow channels. At the eastern end of the island, Halawa Valley's beach is one of the most spectacular in Hawaii, and is well worth the long drive. It's often completely void of humanity; enter the water at your own risk.

West of Kaunakakai, the shoreline is made up almost entirely of gorgeous white-sand beaches. Unfortunately, unless you know someone at the Molokai Ranch, overland access is impossible. Around the southwestern tip of the island and up the west shore, Papohaku's miles of inviting, empty white sands make up for any lost access. The best way to get to Papohaku, by the way, is from the resort at Kaluakoi.

Hiking Trails

Molokai's best wilderness and backcountry hiking trails have controlled access by The Nature Conservancy environmental protection group. Visits must be arranged in advance and there are guided hikes on a regular basis. For information, contact The Nature Conservancy, Molokai Preserve, PO Box 220, Pueo Place, Kualapu`u, HI 96757, 808/553-5236, e-mail emisaki@tnc.org; or call the Honolulu office at 808/537-4508.

These trails are accessed only by 4WD vehicles via rugged backcountry mountain roads. Kamakou Preserve includes three separate trails. Pelekunu Trail is .4 mile and climbs to the rim of Pelekunu Valley, with spectacular views of a cloud forest, valleys and gulches. Pepeopae Trail is .6 mile and goes through the Pepeopae Bog via a boardwalk to keep hikers from disturbing the fragile native plant ecosystem. Pu`u Kolekole Trail is two miles long, beginning at the Pepeopae trailhead and leads through the cloud forest to the 3,951-foot summit of Pu`u Kolekole.

Mo`omomi Dunes is on Molokai's northwestern coast. This area comprises three beaches, Kalani Beach, Kawa`aloa Beach and Mo`omomi Beach. This is a lonely, haunting and windswept place of crashing surf, gusty tradewinds and blowing sand. There are few wilder spots on Molokai. It is a dry, almost barren place where a few hardy native plants and seabirds hold on in a fragile ecosystem. Behind the coast, a large expanse of sand dunes called Keonelele is constantly being reshaped by the elements. It is an incredible place to wander and experience the wild elements of nature. For a quiet relaxing adventure, pick any beach on Molokai's east coast along Highway 450, and walk the shoreline. The numerous old Hawaiian fishponds and reef lagoons, some of which have been and are being restored, are teeming with fish and seabirds. A quiet stroll along Molokai's uncrowded coastal areas can be an adventure in itself.