Moscow

Formerly the center of one of the world's two superpowers, Moscow (Moskva) is still reeling from the rapid pace of change that the past decade has wrought. Located in the center of the East-European plain, with its major part occupying the valley of the Moskva River, it is a brash city with pockets of ostentatious new-found (and often ill-gotten) wealth surrounded by the vast majority struggling to live on their meager salaries or pensions. The spiritual, political and economic capital of the world's largest country, Moscow is quite different from the rest of the Russian Federation and the worst ravages of industrial decline have bypassed the city, as it is more focused on the administrative and service sectors. It is a magnet, not only for the entrepreneurs of the new Russia but also for some of the most destitute from the far reaches of the country.

Kremlin

For most of eight centuries, the Kremlin, at the very heart of Moscow, has been the seat of power for the grand princes, tsars and, most recently, presidents, as well as an important religious site. For Westerners, the adjacent Red Square, especially the bulbous, multicolored domes of St Basil's Cathedral, have been an image synonymous with the Soviet Union and Russian state since the advent of television. Surrounding this center, Stalin's so-called Seven Sisters - Gothic-looking Socialist Realist skyscrapers - humble the individual, as they loom large from the outskirts of central Moscow. On the approach to the Kremlin, along Novy Arbat, high-rises are lined up like giant dominoes waiting to tumble. However, tucked away are the remnants of the older city - beautiful neo-classical houses and impressive structures, such as the Bolshoi Theatre. Most surprisingly of all, there are the underground palaces of the Metro system, the largest and probably the most efficient in the world.

Red Square

Nowadays, the posturing Soviet military driving their tanks through Red Square for the October Revolution Parades have been replaced by the posing of wealthy Muscovites with their shiny new Mercedes Benz. The impressive Stalinist buildings along Tverskaya ulitsa, the main drag leading up to Red Square, now house glitzy Western franchises, while providing the incongruous backdrop for the babushkas that sell anything from dishcloths to kittens, in order to make ends meet. The well-heeled New Muscovites may have greeted capitalism with open arms but after 74 years of Communist-imposed atheism, many in the Russian capital have enthusiastically embraced their once-banned Orthodox faith. This is reflected in the restoration of old churches, the rapid construction of new ones and the decision to give the remains of Russia's last tsar, Nicholas II, a Christian burial. As the second democratically elected President of Russia, Vladimir Putin is the youngest and perhaps the most vigorous leader the Kremlin has seen. At home, Putin has drawn praise for his management of the economy and criticism for his slow response to the Kursk submarine tragedy in 2001. Internationally, Putin has astutely used the 'war on terrorism' as an ideal opportunity to thaw the last ice of the Cold War once and for all, culminating in the Russian president's visit to George Bush's Texas ranch in November 2001. Closer economic ties and political sympathy in conflict areas such as Chechnya are likely to result from Russia's loyalty to the USA and its pivotal role in Afghanistan.

St. Basil's Cathedral

One aspect of the city remains constant and that is the harshness of the Moscow winter. Despite the bitter cold, there is nothing so beautiful as seeing St Basil's Cathedral in the falling snow. In contrast, summer temperatures over 30°C (86°F) are not unusual.

Five Things to do in Moscow:

1. Stay in the past

In Moscow traces of the past flow down every street and through every doorway. Nowhere is this more evident than in the three-star Hotel Rossiya. With 2,900 rooms, it is the largest hotel in Europe, and retains its handsome Soviet-era fittings. It also has its own militsiya, or police station, where the men with the guns will exact money from you if all your papers are not in order. It is bang in the center of town, next to Red Square, the Kremlin and the Moskva River.

2.Visit a giant flea market

Ismailovsky Park is an exhilarating five metro stops from Revolution Square - the distance between stops is considerable and they don't delay in getting you there. There is a lot of dross on display in this giant flea market, but if you follow the locals and work your way to the back you can find some real treasures. Haggle hard and do not be afraid to leave, only to return to purchase an hour later.

3.Visualise Chagall's destruction and love

Marc Chagall was an insightful witness to both the horror and the beauty of the 20th century. His paintings record his personal experiences of being brought up Jewish in rural Belarus, migration and the destruction of Europe. He returned to the themes of ignorance (find the donkey/goat in many of his paintings) and love (the hand-clasping couple). There is no better setting in which to immerse yourself in his art than the Tretyakov Gallery, itself a masterpiece of Soviet architecture and style.

4. Seek youth culture

Witness the creativity and energy of Russian youth in FAQ Café. It is in the basement of a nondescript building and accessed from a barren yard. A semi-deserted bohemian hangout by day, it erupts into life at night. It is five minutes' walk from Revolution Square and 50 meters from Moscow's first McDonald's.

5. Sneak a peek at the KGB

If you only make one pilgrimage in Moscow, it should be to the KGB headquarters, the Lubyanka building. Unlike its Nazi counterpart (Prinz-Albrecht Strasse 8 in Berlin), which only remains as a series of basement arches, the Lubyanka is still standing. An unknown number of people were driven through its heavy black back doors and never saw the light of day again. Do not try and photograph it; the present occupants, the FSB (secret service), are a wee bit sensitive.