Stockholm

Stockholm is, without doubt, one of the most beautiful national capitals in the world. The Old Town is particularly spectacular, and walking around the city's waterways and parks is a glorious way to spend a weeklong stretch of European summer.

This lovely, lively city, with its maritime bent and international flavor, is a magnet for immigrants as well as tourists. Over 15% of greater Stockholm's population is immigrants. Just stroll through the quaint streets, and you'll hear everything from Polish to Japanese.

The city is ideally situated for trade connections, with the 24,000 islands of the skärgård (archipelago) protecting the urban islands from the open seas. In fact, the city is best seen from the water, but once on land you won't want to miss out on the parklands of Djurgården, the alleys of Gamla Stan or the 50-plus museums bursting with world-class treasures.

When to Go

Most of Sweden has a cool temperate climate, with precipitation in all seasons, but the southern quarter of the country has a warm temperate climate. Sweden is shielded from rainy Atlantic weather systems and can be influenced by high pressure over Russia, giving fine weather instead. Stockholm has an average of about nine hours of sunshine daily from May to July.

Events

The Summer Music Festival, held from late May through August at the Drottningholms Court Theatre, celebrates opera, classical music and ballets by featuring productions that use historical, original instruments.

Each November, the Stockholm International Film Festival offers new filmmakers a competitive forum in which to strut their stuff. A relative newcomer to the scene and one of the few 24-hour film festivals in existence, this event has become one of Europe's most important film competitions.

Foodies should look out for Restaurangernas Dag in early June, when Stockholm's restaurants move into central Kungsträdgården and offer food, drinks and entertainment. The Stockholm Jazz Festival blows through town in mid-July. The gay and lesbian Stockholm Pride event is held in early August.

Attractions

Haga Park

Haga Park is a pleasant for walks, bicycle tours or strolling between museums. Gustav III's Paviljong is a superb example of late neoclassical style. The furnishings and décor reflect Gustav III's interest in all things Roman, developed during his Italian tour in 1782. In Fjärils & Fågelhuset (Butterfly House), there's an artificial tropical environment with free-flying birds and butterflies. There's also a shop and cafe. Haga Parkmuseum has displays about the park, its pavilions and the royal palace, Haga slot.

Kungliga Slottet

Kungliga Slottet is the largest royal castle in the world still used for its original purpose. It was constructed on the site of the 'old' royal castle, Tre Kronor, which burned down in 1697. The walls of the north wing of the castle survived and were incorporated in the new palace, but a baroque exterior now conceals the medieval designs.

The new palace, which has 608 rooms, was designed by the court architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, and wasn't completed until 57 years after the fire.

The Changing of the Guard usually takes place in the outer courtyard at 12:10pm daily from June to August (but at 1:10pm on Sunday and public holidays). The rest of the year it's on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday only. It can last over 20 minutes and is quite an interesting spectacle.

By the outer courtyard, there's a shop selling souvenir books and kitschy gifts. Indoor photography in the Royal Palace isn't permitted.

Skansen

Skansen, the world's first open-air museum, was founded in 1891 by Artur Hazelius to let visitors see how Swedes lived in previous times.

Today, around 150 traditional houses (inhabited by staff in period costume) and other exhibits from all over Sweden occupy this attractive hilltop. It's a spectacular 'Sweden in miniature' and you could spend all day here.

There are 46 buildings from rural areas around the country, including a Sami camp (with reindeer), farmsteads representing several regions, a manor house and a school.

Stadshuset

Off the Beaten Track

Nynäshamn

From humble beginnings as a small fishing village, by the early 20th century Nynäshamn had developed into a thriving spa town and the most important ferry terminal for Gotland. Find out about the cultural history of the area in the Nynäshamn Folklore Museum, near Nynäs Havsbad train station.

Sigtuna

Sigtuna, founded around 980, is the most pleasant and important historical town around Stockholm. It's also the oldest surviving town in Sweden and Stora gatan is probably Sweden's oldest main street. Around AD 1000, Olof Skötkonung ordered the minting of Sweden's first coins in the town.

There are about 150 runic inscriptions in the area, most dating from the early 11th century and located beside ancient roads. Sigtuna has many quaint streets and wooden buildings still following the medieval town plan but the church is the only survivor from the devastating late-medieval town fires.

Stockholm Archipelago

Depending on which source you read, the archipelago around Stockholm has anything between 14,000 and 100,000 islands. Summer cottages on rocky islets are popular among wealthy Stockholmites, and regular boats offer great possibilities for outings during this time.

While many islands can be visited on a day trip, you'll get a better experience if you stay overnight. Each island has its own character: Sandhamn (Sandön) is popular among the wealthy and is best on a day trip (90 minutes from Vaxholm); Finnhamn is quieter, though the SFT hostel always fills up.

Vaxholm

Vaxholm, about 35km (22mi) northeast of the city, is the gateway to the central and northern reaches of Stockholm's archipelago, so it swarms with tourists in summer. Despite that, it's a pleasant place with several attractions, and it's well worth a visit.

Voxholm fortress was built by Gustav Vasa in 1544--but most of the current structure dates from 1863--was originally constructed on an islet just east of the town. The Danes in 1612 and the Russian navy in 1719 attacked the castle. Nowadays, it's home to the National Museum of Coastal Defense.

Activities

With all this water about, why not try boating, either of the sail or motor variety. There are also rentals available for those who prefer kayaking or canoeing.

Getting Around

Sweden has an extensive railway network, and trains are certainly the fastest way to get around. There are four long-distance train operators in Sweden, but the national network of Sveriges Järnväg covers most of the main lines. Exceptions are the overnight trains from Stockholm to Boden and Narvik, and the summer-only line from Boden to Haparanda, run by Tågkompaniet. Several counties run regional länstrafik train networks.

Driving in central Stockholm is not recommended; traffic is chaotic and fuel and parking are expensive. Illegally parked cars will get a fine; those deemed dangerous will be towed more than 17km (10.5mi) out of town at the owner's expense.

Taxis can be hailed from the curb and are easy to find on busy streets or in front of bars at closing time. Cabs that are on duty have a lit 'taxi' sign on their roof. Most drivers speak at least some English, but if your Swedish is shaky it helps to have an address written down.

Sweden is a flat country, and it's ideal for cycling (from May to September at least). Cycling is an excellent way to look for points of interest in and around Stockholm, such as prehistoric sites, rune stones, parish churches and quiet spots for free camping.